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1G Vacuum Line Delete

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1G Vacuum Line Delete Empty 1G Vacuum Line Delete

Post  tsiguyawd Thu Feb 10, 2011 6:05 am

Here ya go again but for a 1g!!!! 1g normal vacuum wiring:

Before
1G Vacuum Line Delete Vacline05qb

After
1G Vacuum Line Delete Emissions23cw


The WGS, EPS and TVV ports don't need to be plugged. However, plug the port of the evaporative canister hose on the turbo inlet hose after you remove the canister (not shown). The boost gauge may be ran off the "P" port of the throttle body or the FPS line.


The fuel pressure solenoid can be safely removed. Its function is to increase the fuel pressure on start-up by closing the vacuum path to the fuel pressure regulator which is suppose to prevent the fuel from evaporating when the engne is hot. This is not a problem when high volume fuel pump is being used or might take just a bit more cranking in case of completely stock fuel system.
@ What a Face cyclops
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Post  1gdsmftw Thu Feb 10, 2011 8:56 am

there is 1 problem with that diagram andrew....hooking the boost controller to the bov causes alot of problems lol instead look it to the j pipe down to the actuator
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Post  tsiguyawd Thu Feb 10, 2011 9:48 am

some people dont have nipple on jpipe!! lol
Suspect
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Post  1gdsmftw Thu Feb 10, 2011 10:05 am

well those some people should put one there!
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Post  DSM_munky_man Thu Feb 10, 2011 11:59 pm

Sweet, I am going to use this for sure!! is evap going to set a code? And are you sure the FPR is not needed? and if so then where do i put the vacuum source for my FPR?
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Post  1gdsmftw Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:34 am

you prolly just T the vacuum source to the brake booster...

and no the evap canister wont throw a code i dont have 1 in my car...just make sure u leave the hose on the bottom open or ur gas tank might erupt lol
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Post  DSM_munky_man Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:41 am

Alrght lol cool.
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Post  1gdsmftw Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:48 am

yeah all the evap canister does is filter the fumes that comes out of the fuel lines for emissions

leave the hose open to relieve excess pressure from the tank and its good
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Post  DSM_munky_man Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:19 am

I am assuming it doesnt matter where it is vented at? Or is it a metal line? Cause if it is rubber I was just going to leave it venting by the tank, that way the fumes arent in the bay.
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Post  1gdsmftw Fri Feb 11, 2011 3:07 am

just pull the canister out and leave it where its at...its rubber but its not worth the time to tear it out
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Post  DSM_munky_man Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:18 am

Is it ok for the canister to stay in? I just ripped al the lines off and the big on that goes to the intake, got that plugged, rid of both solenoids and got the ports on the TB plugged off. I don't got time today to be yanking out that battery to get the canister out and that line from the tank?
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Post  1gdsmftw Sat Feb 12, 2011 6:42 am

u can leave it there no biggy....it just takes up space....you should just leave the line there though when ur ready to pull the canister since the line kinda prevents fuel smells and such
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Post  DSM_munky_man Sat Feb 12, 2011 6:51 am

Too late lol but once I pull the canister I want to drop the battery, any tips?
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Post  1gdsmftw Sat Feb 12, 2011 6:56 am

you can drop the battery like 3 inches or so by flipping the 2 tabs on the battery tray that are closest to the side wall and bolt them to the wall in the spot where the bottom bars bolt to

just make sure to fab up something to mount underneath it to keep the tray from flopping around and fab up a good brace to keep the battery still!

heres a pic i did it in my old non turbo talon

1G Vacuum Line Delete L
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Post  DSM_munky_man Sat Feb 12, 2011 7:41 am

Couldn't I just use my battery hold down I have now? And how do they drop it to the frame rail?
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Post  1gdsmftw Sat Feb 12, 2011 7:58 am

it drops the battery about 2 inches above the bottom frame!

you cant use it because its too short and wont reach the wall when bending it upwards to hold the chassis!

just take a piece of metal and bend it upwards and measure its length and drill 2 holes 1 on each side and use the stock bolt that runs down the battery
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Post  DSM_munky_man Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:00 am

Oh ok!! Well, one question about the line delete, that hardline under the intake manifold, besides the vacuum lines hooked to it, is it hooked to any other source and need to be plugged? Cause once I deleted that stuff, It seems I have a boost leak, once I deleted it, my boost went down like 2 psi from what it was, and not according to link it tapers off as rpm goes up, I neverremembered it doing that before.

Edit, After rereading the first page, he mentions something that needs to be capped off that isnt shown, where and what is that and that may be the cause of my problems.
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Post  1gdsmftw Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:23 am

you talkin about the hose that goes to the big nipple int he back of the intake manifold? that goes back to the brake booster lol thats your master vac XD
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Post  DSM_munky_man Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:27 am

Possibility, I just know that from the evap solenoid it went down by the coil under the intake mani, then on the other side the evap can and controller thing went to the same hardline underneath the intake mani. And I am guessing that is the line for master vacuum according to you? So I need to cap those lines off? it is going to be tough to get zipties in the other side for the caps lol
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Post  1gdsmftw Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:29 am

i would suppose so...but check if it is running to the engine itself...if it isnt routing to anything that isnt installed into the engine itself...just take it out....anything that runs to the engine u need to cap off
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Post  DSM_munky_man Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:33 am

I will have to check then, cause I know everything that I could see that went to the engine got capped off or rerouted. Solenoids are gone. and evap canister is unhooked. I will check here in a bit and report back.
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