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1G FWD Drivetrain Info, 5 Speed Swap, Troubleshoot.

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1G FWD Drivetrain Info, 5 Speed Swap, Troubleshoot. Empty 1G FWD Drivetrain Info, 5 Speed Swap, Troubleshoot.

Post  Blackmount Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:10 am

Here's a bunch of misc info I have personally encountered and can verify about our Drive train on FWD 1G DSM's

Auto to 5 Speed swap

FWD 5 Speed Tranny's

F5m22, has a smaller final drive which means it is shorter geared, good for acceleration or a non Turbo\Low powered DSM, but is also weak and prone to braking in hp numbers of 300+\-. This transmission came can be found on 1.8L 1G DSM's, and some 2.0L Non Turbo 1G DSM's

F5m31, I don't have much info on this but am told its a mix between the F5m22, and the F5m33, Longer Geared then the F5m22, but shorter then
the F5m33, and is also relatively strong. Found on 19XX Galant's unsure of year, will update with new info soon.

F5m33, Is the relatively tough, it is the longest geared FWD tranny of the 3 listed, which is good for top end, and MPG, and has improved bearings over the 22\31. (the 2G Version of this transmission was improved even more and even though it has the same number, it differs greatly. Can be fabricated to work in a 1G but I would not suggest it as it is alot of work.

Clutches

All Turbo clutches are the same, FWD N\T, FWD Turbo, AWD Turbo, 6 bolt, 7 bolt, etc.
The 1.8L clutch is not the same, the pressure plate does not like to mate up with the Turbo transmission, and the clutch disk itself is smaller which means less surface area so will be more prone to slipping.

Mounts:

Mounts differ. Auto and Manual Mounts are different! F5m22 has its own mount, however F5m31\33 and AWD tranny's use the same mounts (EXCEPT 2G's)

Shift Linkages: This is a very important thing here so pay attention, Shift linkages ONLY differ by year on 1G DSM's. 1990 (and some 1991) DSM's have 2 adjusters on both linkages. (Most 1991) and all 92-94's have only one adjuster.

When doing a swap there are 3 things that are crucial are that they came from the same year\car. Shift Linkages, Shifter housing (90 is different from 91-94) and a Shift Linkage bracket that mounts on the transmission. Make sure these are ALL the same year. Easiest to get them all from the same car.

Parts for 5 Speed swap:

1:Shift Linkages (when installing if yours has adjuster(s) it is best to leave these in there stock position, the rarely ever need adjusting)
2:Shifter Housing
3:Shift Linkages Bracket
4:Shift Knob
5:Clutch Pedal Assembly (Should come with brake pedal attached)
6:Transmission of your choice (Make sure Shift Fork, and Pivot Ball are included, if not get one!)
7:Transmission mount matching your Transmission
8:Clutch Kit (Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate, Throw out bearing, etc)
9:Flywheel (matching your motor, 6 Bolt, or 7 bolt)
10:Clutch Master Cylinder (if pulling from junkyard make sure the rubber boot is relatively dry and doesn't look like its been leaking any fluid)
11:Clutch Slave Cylinder (if pulling from junkyard make sure you pull the rubber boot off, if fluid comes out, it is bad.)
12:Clutch Fluid line
13:Gear Oil (I recommend Mopar 80W-90 as it is standard dealer replacement for our cars, available at your local Dodge, or Chrysler Dealer) If you experience some grinding or just abnormally rough shifting, try upgrading to some heavier gear oil like 85w or 90w.)
15:Brake Fluid for clutch Fluid any regular brake fluid is fine. (buy alot for bleeding)
16: Starter. Auto Starters are not the same as the Manual Starters and will not work!
17: Starter\Transmission plate (Metal plate that goes between the transmission and the block)

Now would be a good time to replace your axles FYI.

Notes:
1: All Axles are the same Non Turbo, Turbo, Auto, manual, doesn't matter. Only difference is AWD vs FWD axles
2: I choose to bypass the Auto Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) to do so, simply go under the hood where the big plug is for the Auto Tranny, and disconnect the 2 Black wires w\ yellow stripes, and tie them into each other, and wrap with electrical tape or shrink rap done.
3: reverse switch I was too lazy too hook up mine but if I remember right, it is the 2 Red wires (one with a blue stripe) in the big plug that goes for the transmission on your Auto harness
4: Starter Harness differs between manual and auto.

Tip 1: for High Mileage Transmissions, Used Clutches, or Aftermarket clutches it is a REALLY good Idea to Shim your pivot ball which allows your shift fork to move more making you less likely to grind and your clutch more effective, this takes about 5 mins while the tranny is out of the car. Simply pull your shift fork off and out (just pull it), then you should see the pivot ball, should be a 14mm nut around the bottom off it, take a deep 14mm socket, brake it loose and remove it. now get a washer of your choice (I used a head stud washer, the thicker, the more effective) and put it on the on the bottom of the nut side of the pivot ball, and install it back in and tighten it down good, and reinstall your Throw out bearing and shift fork. oh and also make sure to clean the pivot ball and make sure its free of rust.

Tip 2: if your cars shifting is slowly becoming kinda rough and doesn't shift as smooth as it use to simply adjust your clutch pedal by crawling under the dash, and you will the clutch master cylinder poking through with a rod with threads on it and a lock nut. brake the lock nut loose, and turn it 1 full turn, and tighten the lock nut down, and that's it. repeat process as many times until problem is solved, if it still doesn't go away. well its time to replace any of the following items in this order. Slave Cylinder, Clutch Master Cylinder, Clutch disk and pressure plate.

More info to come.

Blackmount
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